Nong Khiaw: mountains on the Nam Ou

Why go

Nong Khiaw is where northern Laos turns dramatic. The Nam Ou runs through a narrow valley between limestone peaks, crossed by a road bridge at the centre of town. It is a place for walking up to viewpoints, watching the river and doing very little, with enough guesthouses and restaurants to be comfortable.

It also sits at the start of the river journey to Muang Ngoi, the village you can only easily reach by boat.

Getting there now that the boats have stopped

For years, travelers took a long river trip up the Nam Ou from Luang Prabang. That service stopped in late 2013 when a series of hydropower dams was built on the river, and you now come by road. Minivans and buses leave from Luang Prabang’s northern bus station; private cars can collect you from your hotel. Read Luang Prabang to Nong Khiaw for the options.

What to do

• Pha Daeng viewpoint: the classic sunrise or sunset hike, steep, about an hour or more up, with views down the valley. A trail fee is charged.
• Easier viewpoints and trails: several shorter paths around town, varying in difficulty.
• Pha Tok caves: a short distance from town, used as shelters during the war years.
• The river: kayaking, short boat trips and the boat to Muang Ngoi.
• Guided treks: day and multi-day walks to waterfalls and villages with a local guide.

Season notes

The dry months from November to February are the most comfortable, with cool mornings that can be misty. Visibility from the viewpoints is often hazy in March and April, when fields are burned across northern Laos. The rainy season brings green hills but muddier trails and a slower road.